in the Argentine Islands - Vernadsky Research Station on Galindez
Island, and Wordie House on Winter Island. The weather has changed,
becoming what one would expect Antarctica to look like - grey and
overcast, but beautiful as well.
Vernadsky was originally operated by the British Antarctic Survey between
1954 and 1996 - and was called Faraday. The Ukraine purchased the
station for one British pound, with the agreement that they would
continue meteorological observations. Faraday's claim to fame is that
it was integral to the discovery of the ozone hole above the Antarctic.
We were taken on a tour of this year-round Station - quite impressive -
and made our way to the most southerly gift shop on the planet. When
Vernadsky was Faraday, the carpenter who built her used the best wood
that was sent to build the bar, and the wood that comprised the shipping
crates to build the building. He was fired! The bar is great, offering a
drink of their home brewed vodka to any woman who leaves her bra with
them. Felice, good sport that she is, left one of hers behind, stating
"it was worth it, and I'd do it again." We returned to the coat room,
put our top layer and boots on, and headed back to the Zodiac landing at
the bottom of a rocky beach. Next stop, Wordie House.
Before I go on, I must share a few interesting points of information.
Four of our group were in a Zodiac this morning when a leopard seal
began following them, swimming under their boat, and doing everything
short of jumping in the boat with them. Additionally, last night,
Megan's Zodiac saw a leopard seal pair with a pup - apparently a very
rare sighting. And, last night, on Petermann, I stepped into a hole in
the ice that was knee deep. (Did I tell you this already?) My ski pants
kept me dry - and I had a great laugh from the experience. This morning,
Nancy fell while getting out of the Zodiac and ended up quite wet. One
person loaned her a pair of socks, and once she poured the water from
her boots, she was fine - and laughing all the time. We have a very nice
group, and everybody is willing and able to laugh at themselves - and
happy to laugh at the experiences of their fellow travelers.
On now, to Wordie House - operated as a British research station between
1947 and 1954, now an Antarctic Historic Monument. The building is named
after Sir James Wordie who was a member of Shackleton's Endurance
expedition. It gave us a very good insight into how men might have lived
during the era of early Antarctic Expeditions. The only wildlife on
these landings were some Skuas (birds) - and us. We did pass two
beautiful sailboats anchored in a cove. Quite an interesting thing to
see among all the ice and rock. I climbed a snow covered hill and was
rewarded with a breath taking view. Came down on my tush - faster and
more fun.
We returned in time for our 12:30 lunch, followed by a tour of the engine
room - including the area where they make fresh water via reverse
osmosis. The entire tour was quite interesting. There were ten of us,
and they are just winding down with tour number eight or nine. At 1530
(3:30 PM), Bernard gave a terrific lecture on glaciers, and as I write,
Happy Hour is in full swing. After dinner, Megan will give a lecture
entitled, Seals and Seal Research. It is amazing how busy we are kept.
If it's not the lectures, it's the landings, or it is the hundreds of
icebergs we are passing as we head south.
What, you may ask, does any of this have to do with "Snow in The
Ukraine"? Well, it began snowing this morning as we headed to Vernadsky
- and has continued all day. It was a cold day - two pair of socks; two
pair of thermal bottoms, plus jeans; two thermal tops, plus my jacket; a
headband and a hat; a neck gaiter to keep the wind out; two pair of
gloves and one pair of mittens; one pair of Wellies to keep my feet dry.
Does this outfit make me look fat?
During the night we will reach 66 hours, 33 minutes, 6 seconds - the
Antarctic Circle - sail below it and head to our destination for
tomorrow - Detaille Island. The adventure continues and I am glad you
have come along.
TheWanderingJu
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