February 9 ~ Penguins, Penguins, Penguins

My morning began early - just like home. When I finally knew the time,
5:30, I was showered and dressed. Those who were still asleep would be
gently awakened at 6:30, with breakfast at 7:00, and the arrival of Rick
Atkinson, Base Commander of Port Lockroy scheduled for 8:45. We would
begin loading into the Zodiacs at 9:30. Rick gave us a wonderful and
historical overview of Port Lockroy - none of it can I remember off the
top of my head. Just take my word for it - it was very interesting. Our
Expeditionary Team is complete once more. Bob has returned from Sick
Call. If he had to sleep away a day, yesterday was a better choice (did
he have a choice?)

Our first stop would be at Jougla Point on Wienke Island, home to
thousands of Gentoo penguins. Two distinct features - they make a lot of
noise, and they stink. That being said, it was hypnotic. If you sit
yourself down on a cleanish rock and remain still they often approach.
A chick came up to me and nibbled on my leg. Human presence does not
concern or frighten them. We walked around, shot dozens upon dozens of
photos, and reminded ourselves over and over again what a privilege it
was to be in this place. There were many old whale bones about - even
one small, nearly intact skeleton.

Our next stop was Goudier Island, site of the world's most southerly
Post Office, and the first British base in the Antarctic. The base was
established in 1943 and closed in 1962. The UK Antarctic Heritage Trust
restored the buildings and runs it as a museum and shop - yes, SHOP. I
was mistaken. There is shopping in Antarctica! And shop we did. We also
spent approximately an hour visiting the Gentoo colony on Goudier - even
saw two nests with very, very young chicks. We were told the likelihood
of these chicks surviving was quite slim. With March comes autumn, the
base closes, and the sea is iced over. If a penguin is not mature enough
to sustain itself at sea until next spring, it is bound to perish.

As we sailed southward, we entered the Lemaire Channel, a/k/a Kodachrome
Alley. The reason for the name is obvious - photo opportunities abound.
The beauty and starkness of the black volcanic mountains, white snow,
and blue glacial snow keeps shutters clicking.

This afternoon Zodiacs took two different groups (broken up into port and
starboard cabins) out for an afternoon cruise around Pleneau Island to
view seals and icebergs.

At 2030 (8:30 PM) we will take a cruise to Petermann Island, landing at
Circumcision Bay, to visit Gentoo and Adelie penguin colonies. Dark
comes close to Midnight, and daylight returns around 3:30 AM.

I've filled a number of memory cards already. From professional to
amateur, this is a photographer's dream. We continue to head south,
hoping for our Antarctic Circle crossing. Until the next time, thanks
for coming along.

TheWanderingJu

---------------------
This e-mail was delivered via satellite phone using GMN's XGate software.
Please be kind and keep your replies short.